Using epoxy paint as your garage floor paint will help prevent stains and deterioration, and it will give your garage floor a tough finish for a showroom look.
Epoxy coating the floor is not only an easy weekend DIY but it is also a great way to help keep your work zone inviting and clean for years to come.After years of use and abuse, garage floors can get pretty nasty.
Most garage slabs only receive a minimum of sealer when originally poured. So years of storage and spills really take their toll. Plus the natural porosity and chalkiness of concrete makes it almost impossible to keep really clean.
Check For Moisture
Check Weather Forecast
Before you begin make sure the air temperature is 60 degrees and rising and that your slab is at a minimum of 50 degrees. It will be near impossible for the epoxy to set if you try to do this in the winter.
Assemble Tools + Materials
You’ll need a 2-part epoxy kit with concrete etch and surface flakes, degreaser, floor patch, floor scraper and squeegee, plastic spackle knife, painter’s tape, a 1/2” nap roller, a 5-gallon bucket, clay cat litter, and a carbon-filter paint odor mask.
Give It a Good Sweeping
Use a broom to clean the slab. Be sure to get up against walls and around garage door tracks.
Scrape + Degrease
Scrape up any hard dirt or grease. For stubborn areas, apply full concentration degreaser and then continuously scrape the surface.
Alternate between the degreaser and dry clay cat litter to pull embedded oils out of the concrete.
Wash + Squeegee
Once the heavy stains are up, quickly wash the entire floor with diluted degreaser.
Quickly remove the standing liquid with a foam squeegee. The goal is to not over wet the floor so it will also dry quickly.
Apply Etch Pretreatment
Mix the citric acid concrete etch with warm water per the instructions. Then apply, scrub, and squeegee off the floor in the same manner as the degreaser. The citric acid will help open the top pores of the concrete so the epoxy adheres well.
Let It Dry
Use fans as necessary to completely dry the floor overnight. Allow longer dry times in cooler temperatures.
Test For Existing Sealer
Check to see if there is still top sealer on the floor. Drip water onto the slab. If the water beads up, there is an existing sealer that may interfere with the adhesion of the epoxy. Depending on how much sealer is left, you may have to repeat the etching process.
Take time to fill concrete cracks and voids as these imperfections will show through the epoxy.
Mix (1) part A to (2) parts B on a clean piece of cardboard and then fill cracks and voids using a plastic spackle knife.
Allow the filler to harden for eight hours and then feather down any edges with a coarse sanding block.
One Last Cleaning
Give the space one more good cleaning before applying the epoxy. Be sure to get close to edges and walls for bits of block and concrete that will get into the finish.
To make cutting in easier, apply painter’s tape along any block and wall plates (basically anything you don’t want the epoxy on).
Mix Part A With Part B
Your epoxy kit should have come with a large and small can. The large can of Part B may feel light but it is only partially full so that you can pour Part A into it. Epoxy is available in various colors but the two most popular are gray and tan.
Pour Part A into Part B.
Then mix thoroughly until the liquid is homogenous.
Must Wait For The Reaction Time
Dependent upon temperature, allow the epoxy to react for the recommended time on the container. Do not cheat this step otherwise you will have a non-hardening sticky mess.
Pour the mixed epoxy into a roller tray and use a cheap brush to cut in along edges. Don’t get too far ahead of rolling because you’ll want to keep the epoxy wet until the flakes are applied.